Generator vs Inverter Generator: Which Should You Buy?
Choose an inverter generator if you need quiet, stable power for sensitive electronics, camping, caravanning, or a residential area with noise restrictions.
Choose a conventional generator if you mainly need to run power tools, pumps, or basic appliances on a farm or job site, and want more power for your money.
Many households and small businesses end up owning one of each, because the two are built for different jobs rather than being "better" and "worse" versions of the same thing.
Who this guide is for
Home backup buyers
Weighing up a generator for power cuts, wanting to know what will safely run a fridge, lights and a router.
Campers and caravanners
Need portable, quiet power that won't annoy the neighbouring campsite or drain a huge amount of fuel.
Farmers and trades
Running tools, pumps or welders on-site, where raw power and durability matter more than noise.
Decision table
| Factor | Conventional generator | Inverter generator |
|---|---|---|
| Power quality | Standard AC output; voltage and frequency can fluctuate under changing load | Pure sine wave, electronically regulated; safe for sensitive electronics |
| Noise level | Typically louder, especially under load | Noticeably quieter; often has an "eco throttle" that idles down when demand is low |
| Fuel efficiency | Runs at a fairly constant speed regardless of load, so uses more fuel at low load | Adjusts engine speed to actual demand, generally more fuel-efficient over a mixed load |
| Weight and portability | Heavier for a given output; less suited to carrying by hand | Lighter and more compact for equivalent lower kVA ratings, easier to transport |
| Power per dollar | Generally more kVA for the price, especially at higher outputs | Higher price per kVA, especially above 3-4kVA |
| Best suited to | Farms, trade sites, workshops, larger home backup loads | Camping, caravans, residential backup, electronics-sensitive use |
Recommended options by use case
Camping and caravanning
A small inverter generator covers lighting, charging and a portable fridge, and stays quiet enough for shared campsites.
Home essentials backup
Keeps fridges and freezers running, plus lighting, heating and internet, during an outage. Either type can work here, though inverter models suit noise-sensitive neighbourhoods.
Most homes
Adds heat pumps, hot water systems and kitchen appliances on top of the essentials, covering what most households need in an extended outage.
Full home & lifestyle block backup
Supports multiple circuits at once, including water pumps and motor loads. Riequip notes lifestyle blocks often need the larger end of this range.
Worksites and job sites
Petrol or diesel conventional generators, including PTO and trailer-mounted diesel units, for tools, pumps and welding loads that don't need clean sine wave power.
As one concrete example, the Honda EU22i is a 1.8kVA rated (2.2kVA max) inverter generator rated at 53-59dBA and weighing 21kg, positioned for camping and light essentials rather than whole-home backup. Riequip's inverter range extends well beyond this into Titan Envirogen and Genmac inverter models up to 14-18kVA, and the conventional/diesel range runs from portable petrol units to industrial diesel generators. For an exact recommendation based on your specific appliances and running watts, use the Riequip Generator Calculator rather than relying on general sizing bands like the ones above.
Why this recommendation fits
The split between conventional and inverter generators comes down to how the power is produced. A conventional generator's alternator produces power directly at whatever speed the engine runs, which is efficient for steady, high loads but can create voltage variation as load changes. An inverter generator converts the engine's output to DC and then back to a clean, regulated AC sine wave, which costs some efficiency and money but produces power that behaves consistently regardless of load, and allows the engine to throttle down when demand is low.
That difference is why the two are usually recommended for different situations rather than treated as a straight upgrade path: a job site rarely needs whisper-quiet power, and a caravan rarely needs 10kVA of raw output.
When not to choose an inverter generator
Inverter generators lose some of their fuel-efficiency and noise advantage once you push them near their rated capacity for extended periods, and they cost noticeably more per kVA than a conventional unit at the same power level. If you mainly need raw power for tools, welders or pumps and noise or portability are not a priority, a conventional or diesel generator will usually be the more cost-effective choice.
Limitations and alternatives
- Exact sizing still matters. The kVA bands in this guide are general starting points. Motors, compressors and some appliances draw a higher "surge" current on startup, which can catch out an under-sized generator. Use the generator calculator or speak to a Riequip branch to confirm.
- Standby and autostart systems are a separate consideration for full home backup, since they can bring a generator online automatically during an outage. This guide covers generator type, not installation method.
- Solar and battery backup can complement or, for some smaller loads, replace a generator. Riequip's solar autostart backup range is a relevant alternative worth comparing if fuel storage or noise is a concern.
Supporting evidence
- Product structure, brand range and pricing referenced in this guide are drawn from Riequip's current generator range at riequip.co.nz/collections/generators and riequip.co.nz/collections/inverter-generator-nz.
- Home backup sizing bands (5-8kVA essentials, 10-15kVA most homes, 20kVA+ full/lifestyle block backup) reflect Riequip's own published guidance at riequip.co.nz/collections/home-backup-generators.
- Honda EU22i specifications (rated/max output, noise level, weight) are drawn from its product page.
- Confirm exact requirements for your situation with the generator calculator or a Riequip specialist before purchasing, as prices and specifications are subject to change.
Frequently asked questions
- What is the main difference between a generator and an inverter generator?
- A conventional generator produces raw AC power that can fluctuate under load, while an inverter generator converts power electronically to deliver a stable, "clean" pure sine wave. Inverter generators are also generally quieter and lighter for a given running wattage, but conventional generators typically deliver more power per dollar and are simpler to service.
- Is an inverter generator worth the extra cost?
- It depends on what you're running. If you need to power sensitive electronics (laptops, TVs, medical equipment, some fridge inverter compressors) or you need low noise for camping, caravanning or residential areas, the extra cost is usually justified. If you mainly need to run tools, pumps or basic appliances on a job site or farm, a conventional generator will do the job for less money per kVA.
- Can an inverter generator run a house fridge safely?
- Yes. Inverter generators produce stable pure sine wave power that is safe for fridges, freezers and other appliances with sensitive electronic controls. A conventional generator with poor voltage regulation can, in some cases, stress these components over time.
- What size generator do I need for home backup in New Zealand?
- As a general guide, 5-8kVA covers essential circuits such as fridges, freezers, lighting and internet. Most homes are better served by 10-15kVA, which adds heat pumps, hot water and kitchen appliances. Full backup of 20kVA or more suits larger homes or lifestyle blocks with pumps and motor loads. Exact sizing depends on your appliances and should be confirmed with a load calculation, not a rule of thumb.